By Alexandria Fox · Staff Writer
When the British capital reclaimed the global spotlight from Sept. 18 to 22, London Fashion Week (LFW) reminded us exactly why it remains the creative heartbeat of fashion month. Between boundary-pushing aesthetics and moments of pure spectacle, this edition definitely lived up to our expectations.
One of the most talked-about events was Roksanda’s milestone show in the subterranean ballroom of the newly debuted Chancery Rosewood, the former U.S. Embassy site. On the afternoon of Sept. 20, founder Roksanda Ilincic celebrated her brand’s decades in business and used the platform to introduce new talent. The runway welcomed Louis Mayhew (an LCF MA grad) and Jacek Gleba (Central Saint Martins) into Roksanda’s circle and also revived Cameron Williams’s “Nuba” line after a hiatus.
In Roksanda’s typical fashion, the collection used both bold color-blocking and artful silhouettes, but what resonated most was her upholding of tradition — honoring legacy but also opening doors for fresh voices. The room felt less like a blast from the past and more like a proclamation: The brand isn’t done, and they aren’t changing their style either.
Across the week, LFW’s style switched between tame and all-out showmanship. Several of the most riveting moments included Burberry’s closing spectacle, which took over Perks Field at Kensington Palace and transformed the grounds into a festival-style stage, complete with a sky-printed tent and riffs on the classic trench. Additionally, Conner Ives leaned fully into pop-culture iconography (like Gaga and Uffie) with sequins, neon colors and a transgender and nonbinary cast. We also saw Aaron Esh’s “gritty glamour” balance East End culture and toughness, using leather, intense cuts and styling that looked polished but also intense.
Then there were the “crazy looks:” H&M’s return to the runway featured several nepo babies (Romeo Beckham, Lila Moss, Iris Law and Amelia Gray Hamlin) walking in edgy, streetwise ensembles. We also saw Naomi Campbell show up in full denim: a floor-length, deconstructed denim gown which definitely took us back to the ’90s. These weren’t just fashion stunts for clicks, though; they blended celebrity, heritage and innovative design, all with a theatrical flourish. It is worthwhile to note the number of “nepo babies” seen on the runway this season, adding to the ongoing debate of whether this is becoming the new supermodel pipeline or if these highly sought-after spots really go to true contenders. But the real theme of LFW 2025 was London’s DNA. This was not about imitation or echoing Paris or Milan, it was about skewed proportions, rough edges and bold risk-taking. ing. The new CEO of the British Fashion Council, Laura Weir, already seems to be making waves by advocating for more equity and support for new voices (implementing fee waivers and expanding guest programs), and this week was the beginning of her new agenda. Roksanda’s celebration, Burberry’s theatrical finale, the cutting-edge designers and celebrity crossovers all contributed to something more than a regular show schedule. London claimed its stage back. This fashion month was sure to be one for the history books.
